Near the top of
the sandy, gravelly (or snowy) approach gully are a series of relatively
solid ledges on the left side. This is the staging area for the
Becky Route. A tricky looking ramp-thing leaves this area to the
left around an exposed corner to the hidden chimney of the first
pitch. All but the most timid should be able to solo this feature
to a good belay alcove at the base of aforementioned chimney.
Go up this initially steep, somewhat loose
slot for half a rope length to a section of pines on good ledges.
Easy ground continues up along the base of the steep wall, but,
alas, this is NOT the route. Instead look up and left into the crux
blocky overhang and crack. Clean rock and more than a few fixed
runners mark the route.
At top of the strenuous climbing, the terrain
suddenly becomes very low angle. Follow these mellow features up
and right, past several fixed pitons, to the base of a gnarly looking
OW. Avoid this via a leftward hand traverse of some 6-8', then shoot
back right to the top of the OW. A slabby, balancy undercling affair
goes up and right to the end of the hard climbing.
So, continue up along the broad spine of
the mountain for several hundred feet. Along the way is a 15' tall,
totally unprotected boulder move. No exposure and a safe landing
makes this more casual than it seems.
Soon after the summit is reached.
The descent is 2 single rope rappels, accessed
via a treed bowl down and left from the boulder problem. Downclimb
from the summit to here, or do an unnecesssary and exposed rappel
from near the topout. |