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Paisano Pinnacle, Regular Route, 5.8, 7 pitches

back to wa pass
  The immense west aspect of the Silver Star Massif, with the Wine Spires on the left and Paisano Pinnacle as the slender little tower leaning against Burgundy.
 

Very fine rock quality and stellar climbing characterize this worthwhile, but seldom done route.
Most guidebooks are rather brief in their treatment of Paisano, so a condensed route description seems in order:
Start in an obvious notch on the long west trending arete. A crack behind some trees quickly becomes rather difficult, signaling that you're on the right route. Easy climbing leads to a short, good looking crack, clearly visible from the start. After that you'll eventually end up on a fine ledge below the crux double cracks and dihedral. At the top of this steep section is the key downward traverse to a small whitebark pine. From here we headed straight up towards an obvious overhang, but face climbed right to easier ground after 40'. A long stretch of spectacular arete climbing, with numerous little cruxes, comes next, until the final fun but exposed ramp to the summit. Now you can scramble down to a couple of rappels, or continue on the last 5 pitches of....

 

Closing in on the base of the pinnacle via a steep snow traverse with an attention getting sweep into boulders and choss way down there. We roped up, I believe.

The approach from the car took maybe 3 hrs or slightly less. A long haul, either way.

   
 
 
This is the first pitch as viewed from the little notch where the climbing start.
  Joe Sprauer at comfy and spacious belay at the base of the thin set of crux cracks, which felt like 5.8 for sure. This next rope length ends on a less secure stance, in the shadows of the north side of the pinnacle. There, at the end of a narrow cat walk is an exposed sloping dish for the belay.  
       
 
  The pitch starting from the ominous belay after the crux twin cracks.
   
       
 
More good climbing