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  Washington Pass routes  
 

Liberty Bell:

Becky (standard) route, 5.6, 3 pitches
more here

Northwest Face, 5.9, 4 pitches
This climb is hidden from view on most approaches and seems to have much less traffic than it deserves. The topo in Becky's book describe two start variations, and two finish variations, which in effect total up to two completely different climbs. We did the left start to the left finish and found good solid climbing, well worth the day. The crux is the third pitch, where some rounded lieback on a stretch of less than perfect rock, proved troublesome. The final dihedral is long and sustained, but lower angle than suspected. Instead of doing strenuous jams up a soaring corner, it was more like balancy moves on slabby rock with a fingertip crack for gear.

Burgundy Spire:

Paisano Pinnacle, Regular Route, 5.8, 7 pitches
Very fine rock quality and stellar climbing characterize this worthwhile, but seldom done route.
Most guidebooks are rather brief in their treatment of Paisano, so a condensed route description seems in order:
Start in an obvious notch on the long west trending arete. A crack behind some trees quickly becomes rather difficult, signaling that you're on the right route. Easy climbing leads to a short, good looking crack, clearly visible from the start. After that you'll eventually end up on a fine ledge below the crux double cracks and dihedral. At the top of this steep section is the key downward traverse to a small whitebark pine. From here we headed straight up towards an obvious overhang, but face climbed right to easier ground after 40'. A long stretch of spectacular arete climbing, with numerous little cruxes, comes next, until the final fun but exposed ramp to the summit. Now you can scramble down to a couple of rappels, or continue on the last 5 pitches of....

Becky route, North Face, 5.8, 8 pitches
A good outing and one of the first routes I did in the area back in 95. Although most climbs in the Wine Spire/Silver Star area can be done in a day car to car, they are far more enjoyable with a bivvy on the bench at 6400'. The Becky route is just about the easiest way to the summit of this impressive spire, and has good rock, somewhat complex routefinding, and a memorable exposed section high above the Silver Star Glacier.

South Early Winters Spire

Southwest Rib, 5.8-.10, 5-6 pitches
This one is becoming very popular after a recent guidebook write-up, so why not further exploit it with a comprehensive feature here. We started at the very base of the rib and climbed a long, awkward pitch to reach the start of the prominent crack of the true first pitch. It seemed like a good idea. It gives you more climbing, is more direct and avoids weaving around on treed ledges. The South West Rib is made up of a series of distinct pitches, all with totally different challenges. After the optional starting pitch there is a left leaning 80' fist/hand crack clearly visible on the approach. This is followed by either an easy corner, a supposedly .9 lieback (didn't look very inspiring) or what Becky calls a .10+ finger crack. We did the finger crack despite the intimidating rating, which is far beyond fivenineclimber's ability. What we found, and on sighted, was a brilliant .10a pitch with good pro and stellar rock. The temptation will be to triumphantly set up belay immediately after this test piece, but it is safer to continue past the long, somewhat runout slab (rather scary) to below the infamous Bear hug pitch. These side-by-side wide cracks are hard looking and impossible to protect beyond the first few feet, but surprisingly easy, once established in them. The route now follow the low angle arete to the notch before the true summit, via some odd and runout sections that can pose unexpected challenges.

South Arete, 4th class w one 5.4 move, 400'
see here

North Early Winters Spire

Northwest Corner, 5.9, 5 pitches
The best route I've done so far in Bell/Spire group. Sustained, steep crack on fantastic rock. None of the all too frequent crumbly choss that other trade routes are adorned with. The crux sections on the Northwest Corner deals with wide cracks so be appropriately equipped. In a jam (no pun..) one #4 Camalot suffices, but up to #5 would be handy to reduce a certain runout passage.

Kangaroo Temple

Southwest Face, 5.9, 7-8 pitches
Right after topping out I was less thrilled by the quality of this classic outing. The rock on the Temple is not the best. Lots of granola pitches and loose flakes abound. But in retrospect, I must admit that it was a great day on a classic route with some distinctly memorable moments. The caves aren't trivial either. To preserve this routes remote and adventurous character, no more will be said.

Northwest Face, 5.7+, 5 pitches
More Temple choss here, yet still better than sitting in, say, the cubicle at Microsoft. The first pitch sets you up with tremendous rope drag before a substantial runout on a dicey, slippery, steep and often wet face, and the last pitch surmounts a precarious stack of decomposed death blocks in a steep corner. In between these two moments of dread are 3-400' of decent climbing...