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2008

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Cold Weather Options in
Joshua Tree
 
Here's is a frequent scenario: Although winter time in Joshua Tree is irresistible for its beauty, it can often be miserably cold, and almost all cold spells have howling wind from the north. Bad combination, exacerbated by the fact that most classic cracks in JT faces north.
But before Bailing to Indian Cove, a move that may not yield warmer conditions but certainly will compromise the quality of the climbing, check out this option:
     

Get up early. This one works even in December, all you need is sun. All the climbs are 5.9 trad routes, and not too bad for the grade. There's enough to do until lunch, after which other options of sun and warmth will surface.
Everything is accessed from the Echo Cove parking lot. Rush over to Little Rock Candy Mountain, and find
M&M's Plain on the east face. Ease of access makes up for a few shortcomings, such as lengths and rock quality. It is nevertheless a fine route in the traditional spirit of JT cracks: Flared, thin, steep, with jugs emerging right when things otherwise would get desperate.
Safe back at the base after rappelling off the two loose bolts on the summit, embark on the short stroll over to the east face of Echo Rock, and find the little detached formation containing Finger Food. The route is rapidly getting in the shade, but with an early enough start, at least the belayer will basking in the sun. If someone held a gun to my head ordering me to solo a fivenine, this would be it. The route is short, with the main difficulties at mid heights, and it start right from the sandy desert floor. It is also a fabulous climb.
Walk off and, in fact, continue walking right around the corner to the warm heaven of Pope's Crack and environ. No rush now, since this fine crack route is in the sun all day, and the next route again will get balmier as the day wears on. On Pope's, good crack climbing technique and a calm attitude can turn this otherwise awkward and pumpy route into a joy ride. Up higher are a variety of obstacles. Make sure to have a few long runners.
Now back to Little Rock Candy Mountain. On the west side is Sugar Daddy, which by now is rapidly approaching full sun. Many times in JT the cracks start out thin or non-existing, making it cruxy and unprotected to get going. With a flat sandy landing this is less of a problem, but here on Sugar Daddy the highball injury potential is real, so watch out. The real crux follows shortly thereafter, but the gear is in place by then. Again rap off the sketchy anchor and go to lunch.

 

More winter ideas to follow...

     
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