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Sidewinder,
.9+ This route is annotated
with above rating in my old purple book. I've seen it with higher
numbers in newer guides, yet those banalities only pertains
to the technical crux down low. Sure, it's a hard sequence and
probably 5.10, but the pro is decent (bolts) and the moves straight
forward.
No, no, nooo, what really sets this climb apart from the generic
JT route is that left trending traverse along a ripple of a
dike near the top. If you've done it, nothing more needs to
be said., And if not...attempt it only on a good day. Choose
one of those occasions when you feel bold, secure and well balanced,
mentally and especially physically. |
Illusion Dweller,
.10-
Now in my book, this is probably
one of the finest routes in JT. Or at least among the few
I've done, which is by no means an exhaustive list.
Back on the day I remember here,
John Bachar was celebrating his 32nd birthday by soloing that
exact number of fivetens. In a few hours, mind you.
I had just come off Illusion Dweller myself, battered and
torn and completely wasted. At a spot halfway up I spotted
a miniscule edge off to the side. A plan to gain some much
needed respite for my wasted forearms emerged, and I tried
to arrange myself to take advantage of this foothold. But
the marginal rest I had hoped for was nothing after all, and
I had to struggle on.
From the ground I watched Bachar reach this spot and nonchalantly
chalking both hands simultaneously, while turning to chat
with friends on the ground. Instead of breaking down crying,
I swore I would get good enough to replicate this maneuver.
With a rope that is. Today, older and wiser, I would have
sobbed quietly, knowing that such outrageous display of skill
and confidence will never happen to me.
Moments later, while still rubbing my raw muscles, Bachar
was seen gliding up Run for Your Life.
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Comic Book,
.9 Nice line up that
central crack, and two pitches of it! Sounds good on paper.
In reality you'll find a flared, very awkward and definitely
uncomfortable first pitch followed by an extremely cruxy second
pitch. That notorious passage out of the belay scoop is basically
a boulder move, vastly harder than anything else on the climb,
and over before it really gets going. Long descent, too.
So, I remember this route because it represents the worst of
the classics in Joshua Tree. |
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Left
(right) Mel Crack, .10
Approaching across the flat desert
floor, we spot a gathering of some 3 or 4 guys at the base.
No ropes are up and a few of them already have packs on. They
are clearly leaving, so we move in.
This is a hard route, cruxy and strenuous, with not an abundance
of pro. A bit of a mouthful for me. I'm nervous and would
rather not have a bunch of people looking.
One man asks which one we'll do. I point to the right one,
as another asks if I'm doing a lead or TR. I study them for
the first time. Older, gnarly, fit.
'Leading', I say. This seems to interest them, and after a
bit of back and forth comments, they decide to stay and watch.
Great...
One guy, gray, wrinkled with a moustache tells me that they
toproped the climb. He sticks out a rough, strong hand. 'Allan'
Another tips his cap, 'Steve'. He's softer looking, a little
heavier. The tall, quiet one, with the intense eyes is Eric.
Present is also a younger man, a ropegun type.
It dawns on me suddenly. I know these people. They don't know
me, but I know them because they are famous. Not Dean Potter-like
icons, but well known and quietly respected. Partly because
they were there when it all started in this country, but also
by still being at it, climbing hard and graceful, getting
dirty and tired, so many years later. I silently put the full
names together in my mind: Allan Steck, Steve Roper, Eric
Beck.
Instead of being intimidated by the presence of a bunch of
strangers, I'm now honored that they think it worthwhile watching
me. This puts an incredible calmness over me.
In the end I flash the route, gliding up in a style not typical
of my vertical endeavors.
Thanks, guys.
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Walk on the Wild
Side, .7
I was fresh in JT. In fact I had
only been in this country a week or so, when hooking up with
another young dude in the campground, via the much frequented
message board. He said his name was Perlon, and the man represented
a type we didn't have many of in Denmark: Hippie. In a fascinating
display of the fashion of the time, he climbed with swami,
leather cuffed EB's and cut off jeans. His face and head was
all hair and several layers of braided, banded ornaments hung
from his neck.
His ethics, based on those of the legendary Stonemasters of
Camp 4, was shared as liberally as the ubiquitous stash of
herbs. But he was young, as was I, and we had not climbed
much. I took his convictions with a grain of salt, thinking
most of them was learned rather than experienced, yet he came
up with the brilliant idea of us climbing Walk on the Wild
Side at sunset. We brought our sleeping bags and a few supplies
and bivouacked on a ledge along the way on this classic JT
multi pitch outing.
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