Some days we want to spend the time seeking out a couple of
ultra classic climbs and other times quantity is what counts.
The latter is not always easy at JT, given the sprawling nature
of the place. Below are a few circuits of moderate crack climbs
with little or no walking between routes. Take note that they
all are in the Lost Horse Area, which by far has the largest
concentration of good climbs anywhere in the Park.
Dairy Queen (AM
sun):
Nothing too terribly hard here, but at least 4 good routes.
Probably more like half a day, so after this shake down set
head up to Taxman and Mr Bunny to fill up the afternoon. The
former is quite possibly the best 10- anywhere in the Mojave
Desert.
Rock Garden Valley (All
day shade, all the time):
A personal favorite. Warm up on Double Dogleg, and proceed
to knock off a handful of high quality cracks in the fivenine
range. Even the lone .10- fells like fivenine. Euthyphro is
one of the better ones, but the first prize goes to Split
Personality, a route from my Classic Cracks in JT List.
Atlantis (Early
AM sun):
Not terribly overrun, but nevertheless quite a few good routes
literally side by side. Vorpal Sword and Hot Crystals are
the stars here, both nines.
Lost Horse Wall (Sun
most of the time, from mid morning):
One of the bigger features in JT. Most routes 2-3 pitches,
with a walk off. Dappled Mare, .8 is the warm up. Then Roan's
Way, a decent .9, and finally Bird on a Wire, which is a very
fine outing indeed. 9+ or so for that one. A full day.
Hemingway Buttress (Not
much sun save early AM):
The hardest set on this page. Warm up on Feltonian, an average
.8. Then Prepackaged, one of two routes on this wall that
made it on my Classic Crack List, Overseer next, and if you
feel bold try the .10a direct start, which vastly improves
the overall quality of this one. Climax with Poodles are People
Too, a climb so good that it is almost unbelieveable. On the
List. Round of the day with a relaxing stroll up White Lightning.
Or wander over to Head Over Heals (that's how Vogel spells
it..), a route I haven't done yet. |