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April,
2008

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Joshua Tree Circuits
more climbs,
less walking.
 
Some days we want to spend the time seeking out a couple of ultra classic climbs and other times quantity is what counts. The latter is not always easy at JT, given the sprawling nature of the place.
Below are a few circuits of moderate crack climbs with little or no walking between routes. Take note that they all are in the Lost Horse Area, which by far has the largest concentration of good climbs anywhere in the Park.


Some days we want to spend the time seeking out a couple of ultra classic climbs and other times quantity is what counts. The latter is not always easy at JT, given the sprawling nature of the place. Below are a few circuits of moderate crack climbs with little or no walking between routes. Take note that they all are in the Lost Horse Area, which by far has the largest concentration of good climbs anywhere in the Park.

Dairy Queen (AM sun):
Nothing too terribly hard here, but at least 4 good routes. Probably more like half a day, so after this shake down set head up to Taxman and Mr Bunny to fill up the afternoon. The former is quite possibly the best 10- anywhere in the Mojave Desert.

Rock Garden Valley (All day shade, all the time):
A personal favorite. Warm up on Double Dogleg, and proceed to knock off a handful of high quality cracks in the fivenine range. Even the lone .10- fells like fivenine. Euthyphro is one of the better ones, but the first prize goes to Split Personality, a route from my Classic Cracks in JT List.

Atlantis (Early AM sun):
Not terribly overrun, but nevertheless quite a few good routes literally side by side. Vorpal Sword and Hot Crystals are the stars here, both nines.

Lost Horse Wall (Sun most of the time, from mid morning):
One of the bigger features in JT. Most routes 2-3 pitches, with a walk off. Dappled Mare, .8 is the warm up. Then Roan's Way, a decent .9, and finally Bird on a Wire, which is a very fine outing indeed. 9+ or so for that one. A full day.

Hemingway Buttress (Not much sun save early AM):
The hardest set on this page. Warm up on Feltonian, an average .8. Then Prepackaged, one of two routes on this wall that made it on my Classic Crack List, Overseer next, and if you feel bold try the .10a direct start, which vastly improves the overall quality of this one. Climax with Poodles are People Too, a climb so good that it is almost unbelieveable. On the List. Round of the day with a relaxing stroll up White Lightning. Or wander over to Head Over Heals (that's how Vogel spells it..), a route I haven't done yet.

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