Surrealistic
Pillar, .7
Unfortunately a rather poor scan of this
old slide from the eighties. Sally Westergaard is leading the first,
and most interesting pitch of this classic route. As seen here the
rock at Lover's Leap is near vertical and quite exposed but littered
with amazing jugs and spectacular chickenheads and dikes. This makes
for some of the best multi pitch moderates to be found anywhere.
The Pillar has a direct start, rated .10-,
that my notes tell me I onsighted a long time ago. A few years back
we returned to do it again and this time I couldn't get up the final
25 feet to the anchor. It looked like scary and runout climbing
with two equally intimidating options to choose from. I spend a
good amount of time trying before lowering off.
The single finest pitch at the Leap and quite
possible one of the best routes I've ever climbed is the 120' long
finger crack of Hospital Corner, rated a hard .10-. A must do. |