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April,
2008

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The long Italian name of this 5.9'ish crack escapes me at the moment. A suggestion would be Incastromania? But, yes it is granite, and that wall is more than a few pitches tall. So you can get more out of Italian cragging than pulling pockets on grey mediterranean limestone.

I first heard about Orco in that long gone, venerable british publication called Mountain, our only source of information back in the time before Google et al. It was just a brief write up, but it lured me up this beautiful, but isolated mountain valley on a rambling hitchhiking trip a few months later. We were young and inexperienced, and completely unaccustomed to long, relentless cracks. The route pictured here was our first ever taste of such all-out climbing, and was indeed all we managed before bloody hands and wilted forearms sent us peakbagging in the nearby Gran Paradiso range.

Here's Sally Westergaard setting up for an effortless onsight many years later.

 
Valle dell'Orco, Italy