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The long Italian name of this 5.9'ish crack escapes me at
the moment. A suggestion would be Incastromania? But, yes
it is granite, and that wall
is more than a few pitches tall.
So you can get more out
of Italian cragging than pulling pockets on grey mediterranean
limestone.
I first heard about Orco in that long gone, venerable british
publication called Mountain, our only source of information
back in the time before Google et al. It was just a brief
write up, but it lured me up this beautiful, but isolated
mountain valley on a rambling hitchhiking trip a few months
later. We were young and inexperienced, and completely unaccustomed
to long, relentless cracks. The route pictured here was our
first ever taste of such all-out climbing, and was indeed
all we managed before bloody hands and wilted forearms sent
us peakbagging in the nearby Gran Paradiso range.
Here's Sally Westergaard setting up for an effortless onsight
many years later. |