In just about any guidebook on Castle Rock this 3 pitch route is heralded as the classic must do climb. I can agree fully. But... be ready for a major sandbag. Or is just me?

Most descriptions, verbal or written, focuses on the thin, delicate and wildly exposed traverse that starts pitch two. Less than perfect pro and high commitment factor surely gets your attention, but the climbing is honest 5.8, if not easier. No, no, what gets me is the mantle finish to the first pitch. There's no way that's anything less than 5.10.

The picture shows the ever steepening and thinning cracks leading to this super strenous, awkward mantle just past the last draw.