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6
Pitch Classic Link-up on Castle Rock, Tumwater Canyon, Washington |
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It took me a while to get to like this old chunk of roadside
rock, but I still can't say I'm wildly in love with the climbing
there.
Nobody thrives on being sandbagged. But at Castle Rock that's
a regular occurrence for me. Especially at and around the
venerable 5.9 rating. Actually not quite true. Even the lower
ratings are incredibly stiff. |
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So, okay, one can get used to that, I guess. But here's a
few more details, to remain in the complains department. On
paper we have 60+ routes here, but venture off the dozen or
so trade routes, and things become almost unclimbable. Moss,
lichen and dirt being your main opponent. Castle Rock is immensely
popular and legions of climbers thus crowd onto the few clean
outings. The resulting wear on the rock have created some
very slick stone in places. Like marble.
Why read on after that introduction? Or go climbing there
at all? Well, it is a historic
place. Lots of early climbing lore was written here. Going
back in time once in a while, reflecting on the pioneers of
our sport, tends to have a calming effect on the ego. That's
at least one reason. |
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Another could be that when you catch the place on a quiet tuesday
afternoon, and you look beyond the polished rock and overwhelming
sandbag effect, you realize the classic lines are actually worthwhile
routes. All seven of them.
One agreeable way to spend said tuesday afternoon, without getting
in too much trouble, is to do the following Lower and Upper
Castle Rock link-up of three different routes. The rating is
5.8, local style, with a short stretch of easy aid, and it goes
like this: |
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Start down
in the mossy lower reaches of the cliff, in a damp clearing
in the woods on a chimney thing called the Through. It is
characterized by the only moderately clean looking stretch
of rock anywhere nearby. 5.6 is what it says, and it is not
too bad. A good ledge appears after some easy choss towards
the end of the pitch.
Above looms the ominous roofs of the Catapult, the second
lead of this affair, and probably the physical crux. The pro
is good and stemming and basic jamming techniques takes you
to the final lunge-like move over the lip. Fun, actually.
The choice is then to sketch out right to Stoner's Ledge and
fiddle in a belay, or continue straight up to easier ground.
Regardless, the 3rd pitch goes over broken territory, with
little difficulty, to the big dividing ledge of Upper and
Lower Castle Rock. Here you can walk back to the parking lot
in minutes if needed, and here you also run into any crowds
that might be present.
Next Angel Crack. Saunter 20 feet over to the base of the
obvious thin seam and aid up past the greasy, polished locks
and smears to some strange moves to a big ledge. Short pitch.
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The next long section of 5.7 face
climbing is an attention grabber. The psychological crux of the
day. Good gear can be found if you're observant, which you better
be since the routefinding is not straightforward. Somewhere along
the way, after the second hard passage you'll belay on a small,
exposed ledge.
The last lead is easier but of equal character and quality, and
takes you straight to the summit.
Voila, another day of adventure in the bag.
Notes:
Down at Stoner's ledge there's a short, stout 5.9 thing called the
Bone, which we imagined could round off our Lower ascent. Unfortunately
the leaders progress came to a complete stop at that cul-de-sac
under the roof. Very hard indeed it was. Even aiding looked dicey,
given the amount of teetering blocks and creaky flakes. I down climbed
in grace.
Also our original scheme was to do Saints on Upper instead of Angel
Crack, to create a more homogenous 5.8'ish outing. But after climbing
the reasonably good first pitch, which gradually turned mossy towards
the belay, it became clear that this is one of those three star
routes that have descended into obscurity. Or so it seems. Moss
and dirt gave little clue as to the further lay of the route, at
least without investing some serious commitment, which seems to
be in short supply these days. |
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