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Getting there:
Locate the town of Leavenworth and drive 4 miles up
Icicle Creek to the large parking area on the left.
The approach is probably going to take 1 1/2 hour, all
included. Most of the distance to the base is on the
heavily trodden Snow Creek Trail, an immensely popular
access route to the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. At a point
directly below Outer Space you'll leave this trail in
favor of a climbers path, which first drops down a few
feet to the creek. A convenient log provides an easy
ford, and well placed cairns on the other side leads
thru a short section of talus before a more prominent
trail takes off up the steep slope to the base of the
wall.
The start of route, as it was originally done, is a
couple hundred feet to the right when standing directly
below the headwall crack. A series of easy ledges and
ramps leads to a shallow, low angle corner that angles
slightly to the right. You probably can't reach the
top of the first pitch without scrambling up a bit before
roping up.
Pitch 1:
Follow the corner mentioned above via mid fifth class
climbing, some of it amazingly polished. There's plenty
of pin scars and other historic degradation to ensure
that you're not off route. After almost a full rope
length there's a short, hard looking finger crack taking
off to the left. This is the route and will lead straight
to the first belay, complete with bolts and all. If
you accidentally continue up the corner past this crack
you'll supposedly end up too high to catch the easy
traverse ledge of pitch two; in a spot with no gear
and dicey down climbing. So keep your eyes peeled. 5.7.
Pitch 2 and 3:
Simple scrambling leads left and up, past some conifers,
to a notch and shortly thereafter a belay at the base
of the crux pitch. 4th class.
Pitch 4:
This is a long pitch. From the broad ledge that concluded
the previous section there's two options to get upwards.
I've done the left hand way. The other one looks like
a strenuous barn door lieback. Anyway, they both rejoin
after a few feet at an easier stretch of climbing. Some
cool rightward trending moves and crack transitions
leads to an exposed cheval maneuver and the gnarly stance
before the wild crux moves. A smaller TCU can be fiddled
in around the corner, so not to obstruct the crucial
flared, greasy slot with gear. Use this marginal jam
to throw yourself out on the steep face, devoid of footholds,
to a series of strenuous pulls on hollow flakes and
other delicacies, before a semi rest and another cruxy
sequence. A true rest follows from where you can contemplate
the final dicey, and by no means trivial face moves
to the anchor. Generally a pitch of weird balance and
baffling riddles. 5.9.
Pitch 5:
Not the cruiser you would think. Up and left on a ramp
to an easy overhang leading to an even easier crack
leading to a blank leftward traverse (stay low), to
a right facing pillar dihedral. So far so good. At this
point you could have established the gnarliest of rope
drags without multiple long runners employed at every
turn. Jam up the beautiful corner to a stiff finale
and the belay, which is not the lone bolt at the pillars
top, but down a bit in a slot. 5.8.
Pitch 6 and 7:
No route finding issues here. These are two of the longest,
most aesthetic crack pitches you'll find anywhere in
this grade. Both start with a stretch of fun, cruxy
finger jams before turning into true cruiser hands ad
infinitum. Add the copious chicken heads, steepness
of the wall and amazing exposure and it could not get
much better. Belay at a small tree at the end of all
this bliss. 5.9.
Pitch 8:
Up and right past a simple but biggish overhang on huge
chickenheads is what we did. There's undoubtedly other
ways similarly run out but easy. 5.5.
Descent:
Down the huge gully to the left via an initially
exposed but well marked trail that eventually branches
and fades and leaves just about everyone confused. It
takes a while to get down, but it is reasonably safe
and not too bad.
Gear:
I don't own any Camelots, save a #5. My rack has for
more than twenty years consisted solely of Friends and
other British artifacts, so find a translator: Bring
lots of #2 1/2 and 3's for that headwall. We had only
doubles of all sizes and sustained some massive run
outs alleviated slightly by tied off chickenheads. Also
include two sets of Rocks, a healthy selection TCU's
and many shoulder length runners. Double ropes (euro
style) is always classy, but that goes without saying.
No big stuff needed beyond a #3 1/2. |