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Outer Space, 5.9, 8 pitches, Snow Creek Wall, Washington

 


This is probably one of the best known multi pitch outings in the Northwest. The fine grained granite is worn smooth, like a Yosemite trade route, from the passage of countless climbers sinking sweaty hands in the perfect splitters. From the trail the upper crack pitches are clearly visible as an odd white streak on a shield of dark grey rock, seemingly a smear of forgotten ice glistening in the sun.
fivenineclimber does not feel bad about further exploiting this fine route with an in-depth description, considering all the beta floating around out there, including numerous web based trip reports and a plethora of printed advice. However, the stuff presented here is based on only one ascent, done in October 2004, and should be taken with a grain of salt, like everything else on fivenineclimber.com. Disclaimer
At least 4 different guide books (who manage to depict the route in 4 distinctly different ways) are currently available. The most accurate topo is in, as should be no surprise, Jim Nelson's Selected Cascade Climbs. Also see here for another fine Snow Creek Wall route, Orbit.

 
 

Getting there:
Locate the town of Leavenworth and drive 4 miles up Icicle Creek to the large parking area on the left.
The approach is probably going to take 1 1/2 hour, all included. Most of the distance to the base is on the heavily trodden Snow Creek Trail, an immensely popular access route to the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. At a point directly below Outer Space you'll leave this trail in favor of a climbers path, which first drops down a few feet to the creek. A convenient log provides an easy ford, and well placed cairns on the other side leads thru a short section of talus before a more prominent trail takes off up the steep slope to the base of the wall.

The start of route, as it was originally done, is a couple hundred feet to the right when standing directly below the headwall crack. A series of easy ledges and ramps leads to a shallow, low angle corner that angles slightly to the right. You probably can't reach the top of the first pitch without scrambling up a bit before roping up.

Pitch 1:
Follow the corner mentioned above via mid fifth class climbing, some of it amazingly polished. There's plenty of pin scars and other historic degradation to ensure that you're not off route. After almost a full rope length there's a short, hard looking finger crack taking off to the left. This is the route and will lead straight to the first belay, complete with bolts and all. If you accidentally continue up the corner past this crack you'll supposedly end up too high to catch the easy traverse ledge of pitch two; in a spot with no gear and dicey down climbing. So keep your eyes peeled. 5.7.

Pitch 2 and 3:
Simple scrambling leads left and up, past some conifers, to a notch and shortly thereafter a belay at the base of the crux pitch. 4th class.

Pitch 4:
This is a long pitch. From the broad ledge that concluded the previous section there's two options to get upwards. I've done the left hand way. The other one looks like a strenuous barn door lieback. Anyway, they both rejoin after a few feet at an easier stretch of climbing. Some cool rightward trending moves and crack transitions leads to an exposed cheval maneuver and the gnarly stance before the wild crux moves. A smaller TCU can be fiddled in around the corner, so not to obstruct the crucial flared, greasy slot with gear. Use this marginal jam to throw yourself out on the steep face, devoid of footholds, to a series of strenuous pulls on hollow flakes and other delicacies, before a semi rest and another cruxy sequence. A true rest follows from where you can contemplate the final dicey, and by no means trivial face moves to the anchor. Generally a pitch of weird balance and baffling riddles. 5.9.

Pitch 5:
Not the cruiser you would think. Up and left on a ramp to an easy overhang leading to an even easier crack leading to a blank leftward traverse (stay low), to a right facing pillar dihedral. So far so good. At this point you could have established the gnarliest of rope drags without multiple long runners employed at every turn. Jam up the beautiful corner to a stiff finale and the belay, which is not the lone bolt at the pillars top, but down a bit in a slot. 5.8.

Pitch 6 and 7:
No route finding issues here. These are two of the longest, most aesthetic crack pitches you'll find anywhere in this grade. Both start with a stretch of fun, cruxy finger jams before turning into true cruiser hands ad infinitum. Add the copious chicken heads, steepness of the wall and amazing exposure and it could not get much better. Belay at a small tree at the end of all this bliss. 5.9.

Pitch 8:
Up and right past a simple but biggish overhang on huge chickenheads is what we did. There's undoubtedly other ways similarly run out but easy. 5.5.

Descent:
Down the huge gully to the left via an initially exposed but well marked trail that eventually branches and fades and leaves just about everyone confused. It takes a while to get down, but it is reasonably safe and not too bad.

Gear:
I don't own any Camelots, save a #5. My rack has for more than twenty years consisted solely of Friends and other British artifacts, so find a translator: Bring lots of #2 1/2 and 3's for that headwall. We had only doubles of all sizes and sustained some massive run outs alleviated slightly by tied off chickenheads. Also include two sets of Rocks, a healthy selection TCU's and many shoulder length runners. Double ropes (euro style) is always classy, but that goes without saying. No big stuff needed beyond a #3 1/2.

 
 
Tom Halpin in the middle of pitch 4, dealing with a mix of hollow flakes and bomber finger locks. Thanks to photoshop for blurring the background.
 
 
 
Nearing the end of the first Headwall pitch, amidst a sea of chickenheads. The most unusual aspect of this day is the absence of other climbers. A balmy week day in October gave us the route to ourselves.
 

Snow Creek Wall.