|
|
|
|
|
Community
Pillar
5.9, 7 pitches
Pine Creek Canyon
, Red Rocks, Nevada |
Images
from our
April '07 climb |
Sitting
across from some very busy, sunny routes in Pine Creek,
this striking line of awesome climbing is remarkably pristine.
Well, good. In a busy world spiraling out of control,
a little quiet time on a shady wall is what we need.
And, looking at the climbing scene around us, this type
of route will likely remain ours for the near future,
too. Although there's great adventure here, and good climbing
also, it is old fashioned. No fixed, convenient rap anchors
to ensure a quick, inexpensive retreat. An abundance of
BIG cracks, requiring grunt and momentum before finesse.
Long, roundabout descent. Relatively low grades, considering
the effort put into the climb. Not the stuff average weekend
warriors hunt for.
Joe Herbst should be pleased.. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The route follow a chimney
like fissure up the face of the pillar for many pitches. There are
some variations available to a few of these leads, to muddle up
an otherwise simple route layout.
First, on pitch one, you can do the notorious dark and tight squeeze
inside the chimney, or some loose, dangerous looking faceclimbing
outside. Well, both choices come with obvious drawbacks, but having
read too much lore about the inside option it seemed inevitable
I would end there. Without shedding too much light, so to speak,
on this dark spot, a few things bear mentioning: Your girth will
determine a successful passage, because it is very tight. I'm 6'2"/
180 lbs, and became mildly concerned somewhere along the way. Sonja,
on the other hand is relatively petite, so physically it was not
bad, but she had to work hard to control claustrophobia. Removing
helmet and rack for later hauling is advised.
So far so good. The next crossroad is on pitch 4. Either 5.8 OW
to squeeze or a beautifully varnished, albeit steep and tough looking
5.9 crack. The latter looked like our kind of territory, and was.
The last route choice happens near the top. From a unique and deep
cave you can climb back out immediately and do death defying faceclimbing,
or perform this wild stem/bridge maneuver out the roof of the cave
via a bomb bay chimney. We chose the last option, and lived to tell.
Community Pillar is also profiled in Red Rock Odyssey, a highly
recommended read by Larry DeAngelo. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|