This
semi obscure route was first presented to us by Joanne Urioste,
who also did the first ascent with George, her friend and
former husband. She recommended it as a good traditional adventure
up steep cracks, which was precisely what we found.
This is certainly a great route. Not of awesome classic status,
but fully worthwhile if you're into old school crackclimbing.
For reasons undeclared, Todd Swain calls Cierta for "Strawberry
Schubert" in his book.
A short diatribe about the descent:
The ASCA had been there before us.
Their work was top notch, as is customary, with painted and
camouflaged double bolt stations, and the old holes neatly
backfilled. Alas, on this route these convenient anchors only
lasted to the belay under
the crux pitch, after which we were
left with old bedframe hangers and other suspicious hardware.
Furthermore, the books tell us to descent via Unfinished Symphony,
on very old and crummy anchors. The best thing to do is this:
Climb to the top of the black corner, pitch 6, as described
in Joanne's supplement. Step over to the old but reasonably
safe anchor on the right and make a very long, exposed rappel
(on 60m ropes only, and do tie knots on the ends) to the last
ASCA bolts below the crux. From here rap the route of ascent. |