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The
clean slabs leading up to the base of the cracks.
This is also the route to the base of Breakaway, an ominous
looking faceclimb up a bulging headwall. |
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David just
clipped the bolt that protects the wild stemming, and later
chimneying, of the long second pitch. |
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The 3rd pitch was a strenuous,
gently overhanging crack, varying in size from tight fingers
to armbars. Felt like the true crux of the route. |
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The
stated technical crux was a short reachy fingercrack with one
off-balance move;
barely fiveten.
As on Black Orpheus, this section is overrated in difficulty
(the new Brock guide calls it .10d ! ), and pales in comparison
with La Cierta Edad's other pitches.
On this picture David is already past it and has only to negotiate
80' of easy but fragile rock to reach the 4th belay. |
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