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Kullaberg,
Sweden
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Svensker
Ruten, 5+
A photo from way back in the early
eighties. Jacob Cold is starting this rite of passage for
wannabe hard men of those times. It certainly was an important
step for us to be able to lead such an important route in
good style. Some rather crucial holds thru an overhanging
section broke off during these years which made it necessary
for graduates to revisit the route for another round of character
building.
As a footnote it should be mentioned that a couple of renegade
climbers once painted green marks on all the holds, as an
act of defiance against the Danish Mountain Club, at that
time a very conservative establishment. Needless to say the
saboteurs were promptly expelled from the Club, and the issue
and all the implications quickly brushed under the carpet. |
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Tornerose,
6+
Tobias Kjølsen climbing,
belayed by Bent Ro Dahl. Maybe 1987. |
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Lynet,
aid or 8+.
An overhanging finger crack on
uncomfortably smooth rock, albeit presenting little difficulty
on aid. A great winter spot to hang in etriers for a few hours,
for us young and overenthusiastic lads, when everything else
was wet and cold. I'm leading and Jacob Cold is belaying from
a sleeping bag. About 1988.
This route became a significant piece of Danish climbing history
when Peter Harremoes did the FFA in the early nineties after
literally years of work. The antics employed by this enigmatic
climber ranged from a lifesize basement model of the crux,
a super technical fistjam sort of thing; to midwinter attempts
aided by a blowtorch to ward off the damp salty air of this
surfside route. It is supposedly wicked hard and the Scandinavian
version of the Great Roof on the Nose, since nobody else was
able to free it for a long time, if at all.
Photo: Jess Lysgaard |
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Testoverhænget,
aid.
Henrik Jessen Hansen practicing
jumaring on a brutally cold, nose running day in February 1987.
He still had all his toes, bless him. I don't remember clearly,
but this pitch goes free at a reasonable grade? It must, because
I believe I did it a couple of times. Weird gear, though. |
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Coke,
6
Bent Ro Dahl, in impeccable
style, both pertaining to the execution and the attire. But
that's Bent.
About Coke: In 1983 on my first ever outing to these traditional
danish crags, young and green and encumbered by mountain boots,
knickers and hexes on kneelong runners, I glanced over to Coke
and saw a tall lean climber at the base. He had a long ponytail
and was wearing only shorts, chalkbag and shoes. While a contingency
of high ranking danish climbers shook their heads, he effortlessly
soloed the route. I was blown away, but never found out who
he was, and it remains a mystery to this day, since at that
time most resident climbers looked exactly like myself.
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More wintry
seaside coldness on fractured, mossy, lichen covered gneiss.
The route is unknown, rather embarrassingly. I don't remember
the name, nor did some of the Mountain Club's most well researched
historians when presented with this picture.. On the North Shore
in some obscure cove.
Tobias Kjølsen following. Ca. 1987. |
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