left ski track, 5.6, 3 pitches: Steep
with jugs galore. Until the last polished slab... Excellent winter
outing.
sahara terror, 5.7, 7 pitches: A
long adventurous excursion on the north side with engaged route
finding. You'll find a bunch of overhangs and a well defined crux
somewhat out of tune with the official rating.
Images
piton pooper, 5.7, 4 pitches: Lots
of fair to good easy climbing interrupted by a steep and strenuous
crux pitch. Image
el wampo, 5.7, 5 pitches: Mostly
known for a fantastic second pitch, sporting a 100' hand crack.
A variation to the third pitch makes for more interesting finish.
Image
fingertrip, 5.7, 4 pitches: Don't
know any better 5.7 in California. Mayby because it is more like
a sustained eight in disguise. Image
the jam crack, 5.8: Not
the best climb on this list, but worthwhile to do as a warm up to
Dave's Deviation..
the chauvinist, 5.8, 3 pitches: Difficult
start followed by a fun overhang.
traitor horn, 5.8, 4 pitches: Strange
and a bit unnerving. Don't make this your first Tahquitz route.
If the whole horn affair is too out there, literally, you can jam
straight up the corner at around the same difficulty.
the long climb, 5.8, 7 pitches: Here's
a good one. Do the Wong start as recommended everywhere. This climb
has a number of distinct pitches, including the locally famous move
around the 'downward jutting block'. Images
last grapes, 5.9: Lost and forgotten,
judging from the cobwebs and initial dirt filled crack, this finger
crack is actually well worth doing.
open book, 5.9, 4 pitches: First
pitch is supposedly the crux. It's hard all right, but features
straight forward climbing. The most memorable part of Open Book
must be the notorious OW corner on the second pitch. Sonja, my wife,
recently lead this gaping slot and was happy to have a #4 1/2 Camalot
in addition to the usual arsenal of cams. And then there's the baffling
5.6 chimney to top off the route....
hoodenett or whodunit,
5.9, 8 pitches: Without comparison the finest route on this
limited list of Tahquitz climbs. There's some low angle, slightly
runout climbing lower on the climb, featuring a disappearing seam
on a slab. But after this uncharacteristic passage it's steep cracks
and chimneys and other similar goodies. Seldom does the overall
difficulty dip below 5.8 for more than a few feet, yet the route
is never unreasonably hard.
Images
dave's deviation, 5.9:This
might be one of the finest five nine finger cracks outside of the
Valley. Image
super pooper, 5.10-, 4 pitches: Hard
and long crux pitch surrounded by less committing, but equally high
quality climbing. I do remember some hesitation regarding the routefinding
on the last pitch. Did this one in 1991 with my girlfriend Sally
on a 2 week trip from Denmark. We were supposed to go to Devil's
Tower, our then favorite crag, but got stuck in a fierce snowstorm
in south west Wyoming. After spending a day and a half in a roadside
motel waiting for the freeway to open we turned around and drove
to SoCal. There was still a good deal of snow at Tahquitz, keeping
us off the north side.
human fright, 5.10-, 2 pitches: Lieback
and smears. No rests to speak off, so climb fast. |