|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
The
Muir Wall, the 4th route done on El Capitan, is a five
star adventure. It is long (some say the longest route
on El Cap), sustained, strenuous, but never dangerous.
In other words, a perfect outing if exposure, fantastic
cracks and overall climbing quality is on your list. So
it must be littered with parties all season? Not at all,
strangely enough. Except for a handful of pitches in the
middle, which the route share with the Shield and Triple
Direct, it is mostly deserted. Even today, I hear.
TM Herbert and Yvon Chouinard did the groundbreaking first
ascent back in 1965, in a bold, unsupported push |
|
|
VI
5.9 A3 - 33 pitches |
 |
|
Don't trust your life on anything
you read here.The beta presented is more than a decade
old and originates from an assortment of random notes
and tattered bits of memory. Worthless.
Also see here.
|
|
|
|
| with
no fixed lines and only a handful of bolts. It was the
natural progression for the hardmen of those times. Harding
showed it possible to climb El Cap, with his 1958 ascent
of the Nose. Robbins, Pratt and Frost did Salathe with
substantially less fuss, fewer bolts and in better style.
After a group of relative outsiders did Dihedral Wall
in 1961, TM and Choiunard set out alone with few provisions
on a grand adventure up the tallest section of El Cap,
fully committed to top out. They completed the first two
person on sight of a new El Cap route with all their bolts
used, water long gone, torn ropes and fully spent. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Links |
|
Supertopo
- Even if you don't spend the $ on their topo (there's a free, but
old one available here on fivenineclimber),
then at least check the message board for yet more unsubstantiated
beta.
Rockclimbing.com
- look under Magic Mushroom to see a very brief description concerning
the notorious pitch 10, the way we did the climb. There's also some
similar stuff about the Muir to get you psyched. |
|
|
The Topo |
|
|
Go
here to see a homemade topo, with comments, based on notes taken
4 weeks after the climb.
|
|
| |
The Pictures |
|
| |
Here
you'll find a handful of shots from our 5 day ascent in May 1992.
|
|
|
| The
Route. |
|
Chris
McNamara, www.supertopo.com
writes:
The Muir Wall is one of the few really
classic moderate routes on El Cap that does not receive tons
of traffic.
Then how difficult is it? Most of the pitches are
C1 and C2. At its hardest, it is about as difficult as Zodiac
(A2). But the main challenge of the Muir is its length. Also,
because there are few pitches rated 5.7-5.9, almost everything
must be aided, which is time consuming.
Since the Muir Wall is soo long, it is reccomended for teams
that can move fast.
(Reprinted with permission)
The climb we did back in 92, which is also the one described
in this article, was a mix of the Muir and Magic Mushroom.
Up until pitch 13 we were undecided which of the two to do.
We started to fix on the Mushroom, did 5 pitches and realized
there was no reliable anchor possibilities to get back down
without swinging over in the Muir. This one we followed a
short stretch before getting back to the Mushroom. In essence
we climbed almost the entire lower section of the Magic Mushroom,
all excellent, memorable stuff, before finally committing
to the Muir after Mammoth Terraces. This is well explained
on the topo.
It is possible to avoid all this lower confusion via Salathe's
Free Blast. Bad idea.
We had done the Free Blast before and knew it wasn't the best
section of climbing on El Cap, besides the fact that it's
a free climb, as the name implies, and the Muir et al is an
aid wall (or was). Better to get in that groove from the beginning
and do the seldom visited lower pitches below Mammoth Terraces.
Expect that it will add a day to the climb, but that's what
it's all about: Hanging out on the wall.
|
|
| The Climbing |
|
For us
it was an aid wall almost exclusively. We found short stretches
of free climbing thru out, but very little of it was hard,
of particular interest, or scary. The exception might be most
of pitch 10 and the steep crack on 13. The former was a smooth
runnel with a seam in the back, blown out by repeated nailing.
Pro was sketchy, the balance quite awkward and everything
about it felt insecure. This feeling changed very little when
finally I started aiding.
As on most El Cap routes in this area from the Nose westward,
the first dozen or so pitches are relatively low angled. The
features are more indistinct, the cracks are sometimes bottoming
and things can get almost slabby. At Mammoth Terraces the
wall rears up, and stays at or beyond dead vertical for the
rest of the route. The cracks and corners up here gets sharp
edged and long, with well defined features such as the immense
dihedral on pitches 27 to 31. The Muir doesn't have any huge
roofs (like below the Headwall on Salathe) nor does it have
the constant 110 degree inclination of the South East Face.
Just thousands of feet of really steep climbing.
Aiding on the Muir was in the classic idiom. Lots of straight
forward A1 and A2 cracks, the majority of which were clean
and absolutely beautiful. Very few hooks moves, only a few
feet of copperheads. The cruxes were, as it always seems to
be on older routes, creative installations in shallow, blown
out pinscars. This said, there certainly were some very pristine
appearing thin cracks too, that took the tinyest nuts and
KB's. These sections we found mostly on the desolate, seldom
gone lower pitches.
All in all the climbing is not desperate, hardly scary and
certainly not dangerous. It is a mellow choice for a seasoned
aid climber, but a perfect and most enjoyable outing for someone
relishing in sustained, esthetic and strenuous aiding on flint
hard and flawless granite (thanks to Largo for coining
that last phrase).
|
|
| The Gear |
|
In 1992
we had no Cam Hooks. All the rest of the clean aid arsenal
was essentially the same back then as it is today: Aliens,
Hb Off Sets, Bird Beaks etc. But with those Cam Hooks, Ed
Leeper effectively removed the need to pound in hundreds of
pitons on the old classic El Cap routes. Even average aid
climbers like us could have gone clean with ease, where we
frantically groped for the pin rack and slammed in dozens
of LA's or wacky sawed offs.
But anyway, here's the list of what we brought, without updates
(remember this pertain only to the Magic Mushroom/Muir hybrid
described here):
2 sets of HB Off Set brass nuts
1 set of HB Off Set regular nuts
1 set of RP's
3 sets of Rocks
3 sets of TCU's
4 ea #1 - 1.5 Friends
3 ea #2 - 4 Friends
2 ea #4 Camalots
4 KB's
12 LA's
15 ass. angles, inc. 1 - 1.5"
10 copperheads
all hooks
10 rivet hangers
80 biners
lots of runners
Notes to gear: Some of the cracks are very long, parallel
sided and consistently 1 -1.5" wide. Very much like an
Indian Creek splitter. Bring cams accordingly, to avoid some
of the hefty back cleaning scenarios we encountered.
Since the much talked about free attempt involving illegal
power tools, you must assume the anchors have been beefed
up a bit. This would be nice, since I remember more than one
instance of dangling from a handful of beat up 1/4" bolts
with copperheads leading to and fro the belay.
To the best of my memory, there's little or no need for cams
larger than a #4 Camalot. We didn't own anything bigger, save
a #3 Big Bro which was left in the car. That said, it is prudent
to include a few bigger units so you always can aid yourself
out of some heinous OW horror.
|
|
| The Bivvys |
|
It
is off course unlikely you'll end up at the same bivvy locations
as we did, but here's the beta about ours (all were spent
in port-a-ledges):
First night: Top of pitch 11. Not tremendously exposed. Good
smallish ledge to get organized on. Excellent anchors. Fine
spot.
Second night: Top of pitch 18. Very exposed location under
the Shield Roof. Many parties pass by here, so the anchors
are in good shape, but you might find someone already hanging
from them. (Those scandinavian readers with NTK's 1983 Anniversary
Edition on their shelves, will find an excellent shot of this
bivvy on p. 77.)
Third night: Top of pitch 24. In the middle of an amazing
stretch of soaring corners and killer climbing sits this little
triangular slab. The sudden lower angle and plentitude of
gear makes for a no brainer bivvy spot.
Fourth night: Top of pitch 30. If you at all can time it
to stop here, do it. The exposure is intense, the surroundings
are as grand as anywhere on the route, and few obvious spots
appear in the last 3 pitches. As a matter of fact the next
section is one of the cruxes.
|
|
|