This stretch starts
out with a long rightward traverse thru the loose diorite band,
to gain the upper dihedrals.
After these less inspiring leads, the climbing radically improves
with a classic Yosemite flare that is as strenuous as any. Barely
recovered from this thrash fest you're faced with 300 feet of flawless,
laser cut dihedral with a finger
sized crack in the back.
When this ends at an exposed hanging
belay, it gets even better. A short penji sends you into an
A2 crack, that probably contains the finest aid on the whole climb.
Things continue up a killer RP corner
with beautiful geometry to another hard, but fully enjoyable
crack. The loose flakes mentioned on the topo was not too bad,
with the belayer protected by overhangs and bomber gear before and
after. But this was in '92 and things likely have changed.
There was also a cool reach move to gain an overlap just before
the belay.
Overall, pitch 21 to 26 are some of the finest, cleanest aid I've
ever done. |