The Valley...
What can be said that haven't already been heard?
Back in the eighties in Denmark only
two or three climbers had ever been to this fabled place,
and only one had actually completed an El Cap route. As an
aspiring climber with little experience these pilgrims were
to me so revered, so untouchable, that I barely could look
them in the eye. I read their stories in the Mountain Clubs
bimonthly magazine over and over again. In fact, I read everything
I could find in the Club library about The Valley.
I was completely absorbed by dreams
of climbing the flawless granite splitters myself. I owned
the yellow guide book years before I gained enough confidence
to consider going, and had memorized every pitch on the Nose,
knew every 5.10 by name. Harding, Robbins, Pratt, Bridwell,
Bachar, Long, they were all my heroes.
By the time I left for my own pilgrimage
in 1989, still no other danish climbers had gone. With just
a few books and the occasional article in the british magazine
'Mountain' as the only resources, I felt like a pioneer. No
Goggle searches, no email. Despite my sky high expectations,
seeing El Cap for the first time at the exit of the Wawona
Tunnel was mind boggling. That first visit from late April
to sometime in July still stands as one of the most magical,
most amazing times of my life. For me it was truly like a
odyssey to the inner most sanctum of climbing.
Ahh, how impressionable ones youth
can be. The enthusiasm, the energy. I have a hard time imagining
reliving such emotions today, now having become a disillusioned,
cynical grump. Even though the more I read about Arapiles... |