As should be obvious from reading the intro, I was rather fascinated with the Valley for years. Couldn't wait to be back for another big wall. Had to do Serenity Crack/SOY once a season. Hanging out in Camp 4 revitalized my climbing urge.

Curiously, not so anymore. Over the years I have almost completely lost the need to climb there. Still trying to figure out why.

Joshua Tree, where I've spend at least as much time is still drawing me in every time I go. The joy of repeating those routes again and again is as strong as ever.

The Valley crowds? No problem. I'm from Europe. Want to see real route congestions? Pick any Euro crag, from Buoux to the South Face of Midi.

Camp 4? I have friends that refuse to stay there and always get reservations to the bland, monotonous spreads of the Pines et al. Not close friends, mind you. Because not accepting Camp 4 as an essential part of the Yosemite experience tells you something. Camp 4 with all the foreigners, the occasional weekend warrior and the aloof hardmen, with the wicked squirrels and incredibly greasy tabletops, with the mud and blue tarps and soggy sneakers, with the Columbia Boulder and the incessant thud of groundfalls from the lip of Midnight Lightning. It is all good. It is almost better than the climbing.

But what about the climbing? The walls are unmatched, off course. If you have wall fever, this is where you go. I've done a handful, and always had an awesome time. The 4 year period in which I bagged these routes was quite possibly the highlight of my climbing career, and to me Yosemite will always be synonomous with standing in aiders high on El Cap. But I'm done with that. Too much time has slipped by. A tad more nervous these days. Not so worried about the leading, or the exposed bivvys. No, the one aspect of aid climbing that scares me beyond reason is jugging. I hate it. I have images in mind of the rope abrading over an unseen edge as I dangle in mid air trying to clean a stubborn pin. Or jumars being weirdly loaded and undoing themselves on a traverse. Neurotic fears, off course. But those are the worst. No amount of logic or reason can take them away. Its been years since I came to terms with my failing commitment to big walls and stopped aid climbing altogether, and life actually goes on. I can live without them.

But I think that is only part of the reason why the Valley doesn't draw me in anymore.

The free climbing then? Is it a good place for a flailing 5.10 climber? For sure. Fantastic, off course. Outer Limits. NE on Higher. Even Manure Pile Butt. Lots to do if you are a decent crack addict. But the free climbing is actually the aspect of the valley that has been wearing on me. These days it is more important to me to experience a new area, with all the excitement of finding the routes, attempting an on sight and risking maybe doing only a few climbs, instead of rolling into the all too familiar Valley and efficiently knocking off the same 15 pitches over and over again.

to be continued..