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Muir Wall,
1992
Here my climbing partner on the Muir,
Florian Kofferlein, is engaged in some serious leap frogging on
# 1 Friends. This splitter corner is one of the many aesthetic pitches
on this clean, beautiful climb. The Muir is taking a mostly direct
line up the SW face , halfway between the Nose and Salathe Wall,
on one of the tallest sections of El Cap.
The belay I'm at here had just a one old hangerless buttonhead bolt,
and was in the middle of this endless 1" crack. I had used
all my small cams (and Florian would need them anyway for his lead),
so after rooting thru the rack I found one proper sized angle piton
. Not feeling that was quite enough, I had to fiddle together two
separate nut stacks in the parallel sided crack, that actually appeared
bomber.
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