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    The Nose, June 1989.
I am leading up one of the many cool corners that characterize the last third of the Nose. This one looks a bit awkward though. The summit overhangs lurk in the distance. What's up with the headlamp? I think we were so psyched about the route and the climbing, that we made predawn starts every day, I seem to remember. Notice the absence of gloves. This was my first El Cap route and the importance of knuckle protection was only dawning on me. It was cold and windy up there that morning. We had everything on and still shivered through the belays.