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The Nose,
1989.
The first real gut wrenching exposure of the route is at this belay,
after the Great Roof. I loved it. An addiction to exposure was probably
the primary reason I returned to El Cap 5 times. Basically being a
climber of modest ability, I started aid climbing to take me to these
amazing places. I never ventured onto desperate routes, but had a
real good time plugging cams in A1 cracks.
We brought a hammer on this climb to clean our stubborn nuts (highly
recommended), so when we found the Great Roof almost completely fixed
with nice RP's, Geoff quickly removed the lot. Shortly thereafter
a guided team on a hurried one day ascent arrived. The guide let the
client lead the roof pitch, expecting it to be a simple task with
all the usual in-situ gear. Much impatient shouting and other un-guidelike
behavior ensued when the client slowed to a crawl, fiddling forever
with brass nuts and the like. |
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