great
white book, .6
The only multipitch route route I've ever soloed, if not the only
route period. How this insane idea became a reality is described
here.
hobbit book, .7
This is a good outing. Long approach followed by a scenic and also
longish descent helps to fill in the day and create a fine adventure.
The climbing isn't bad either. Bring long runners to tie off flakes
on the R pitch, which probably reduces the seriousness a bit.
south crack, 8
A brilliant finger crack that ends way too soon and sends you out
sailing on a sea of featureless granite. Some where in the midst
of all that tedious slab climbing is a placement under a flake for
a #2.5 Friend.
west crack, .8
On this climb the crack continues in fine form all the way to the
top. Unfortunately it doesn't quite reach the ground to start with,
and that's the crux of the day. Especially fine is the 60' finger
crack up high.
fairview dome, regular
route, .9
Climbing doesn't get much better than this in the .8/.9 range. Anywhere.
One of my all time favorites, if the mood is for a day of beautiful
cracks and corners, instead of the usual high strung, all out adventure.
Once that cruxy, but low angle move on the first pitch is over it's
pure joy onwards. With a 60 m rope you can conveniently and with
good belays reach the big ledge at the end of the major difficulties
in 3 long pitches. Watch for crowds.
dike route, .9
In 89 when we did this one there was some really old bolts sparingly
placed here and there. They've more than likely been replaced by
now, which would make this striking face climb a must do.
on the lamb, .9
Unique route. It's a 3 pitch traverse,
following a horizontal thin crack across the upper part of the Lamb.
Who leads doesn't matter and it can be climbed both ways. In fact
if you had a good time, you can turn around at the other end and
climb back to your starting point, saving having to bring shoes
and packs with you. For a one way journey it is probably best to
go right to left. The crux 40' finger traverse is quite difficult
and very strenous to protect.
phobos, .9
Steep painful cracks. But good.
deimos, .9
More steep cracks. An excellent route with all sorts of challenges,
from OW to thin face. Probably a tad better than Phobos, contrary
to common opinion. The guidebook I have show a fixed pin or bolt
on the 3rd pitch. It would be nice if it indeed was there, but alas,
when we did the route there was nothing. Bring a small alien instead.
the coming, .10-
The west face of Medlicott makes me nervous, for some reason. Part
of it might be Bachar's heady exploits on the right side, even though
I never aspired to get anywhere close to them. Medlicott is just
a dark, foreboding sweep of featureless granite. For a crack climber
you got few places here for your eyes to seek the comfort of a continous
route prospect. The Coming way over left is almost an obvious line.
It starts out good, with a fun, hard crux followed by a long difficult
corner (the .10- start is strongly recommended, since the original
is an overgrown chossy groove). Somewhere up there however, the
corner starts arching right and peter out. Progress gets tedious
now. Pro is limited. A strenous overhang later sees you on a small
ledge, squinting up into the midday sun, looking for a way to the
top. Ahead lies 300-400' of knobs, big and small and not much else.
As one inches on up, passing remains of sketchy rap anchors and
other debris, the tension builds. Where to go? There's no bolts
or chalk or other clues. I guess this is standard Tuolumne fare,
and in the easier catagory too, but for me it was rather unnerving.
lembert dome, nw face,
.10
A good straight forward route, with a thin, thin crux.
sticks and stones, 10-
A not so good straight forward route, mainly due to grainy rock.
crescent arch, .9
Despite the nine rating, I think this one belongs up here with the
tens. It's sustained, with crux after crux thrown at you, until
the final memorable moves escaping the grip of the arch. One of
the better long routes in the Meadows, but be prepared for some
strenous climbing. See
here
lucky streaks, .10-
Like Crescent Arch, sustained is the name here.
eichorn pinnacle, west
pillar, .10
This one is in the Tuolumne guide book, but it is more of an alpine
rock climb so I'll dicuss it later on another page.
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