In
Southern California, at an old crag called Tahquitz,
is the standard setting 5.9 route Open Book. This is a good
one to have done as a climber. It was the first route in this
country to get the rating of 5.9 some time after Royal Robbins
first cruised it in, was it '53? So it is historically important.
But the Open Book is also supposed
to be the 'standard of the grade', meaning that this is the
5.9 all other 5.9's are compared against, at least on the
West Coast. Very handy for a climber to know, not only if
involved in a discussion on ratings, something we, willingly
or not, see ourselves gravitating towards ever so often. Knowing
there's a route with an untouchable rating that will always
stay the same is fundamental. It will help in dealing with
hotheaded egos at many devaluated sport crags, among other
things..
The three pitch Open Book is not a
trivial 5.9. It's stout by all means. All kinds of techniques
are required, from pulling a juggy overhang, thru liebacking
to jamming everything between thin fingers and gaping OW.
Leading this route in a calm, controlled manner is a personal
benchmark I find worth striving for. One that I in fact still
haven't attained.
I have found a couple of other routes
over the years that I regard as my personal 'standard of the
grade'. These are the following:
5.7: Double Cross, Joshua Tree
5.8: Nutcracker, Yosemite
5.10-: Taxman, Joshua Tree
5.10: Thin Ice, Needles
5.10+ :El Matador, Devils Tower
And that concludes my feelings about
ratings, besides the ubiquitous comparison table also presented
here |
