vantage

Last
update:
April,
2008

WARNING


Rock
crag list

red rocks

yosemite
joshua tree
tahquitz
NW cragging
scandinavia
worst crag
local crag
wa pass
pasayten



Boatbuilding
home
boats for sale

People
jesper ritzau
sally
craig delbrook
   
 
   
 

My wife Sonja, gesturing at the approaching spring. Twisp River, 2003
.

 
   
 

Sonja's Desert Towers, 1986-93:

These routes are mostly damn hard, some with several 5.11 pitches, and quite clearly beyond the ability of fivenineclimber himself. Several are first ascents, even. Besides this impressive list, Sonja did practically every route at Wall Street half a dozen times and scores of Indian Creek desperados.
So much for bragging about my wife, who today only leads reluctantly, but still loves climbing. Pretty much the perfect partner: Effortlessly glides up anything I can lead, doesn't complain about always following, but is nevertheless ready to take over if I poop out.

Moses, Primrose Dihedrals, twice.
Sonja's favorite. Just excellent crack climbing, she reports, which included a dihedral that changed aspect in a strange and unique fashion. What this actually mean I didn't quite get.

Airport Tower, route name might be Wind Shear.
First ascent with Galen Howell.

Totem Pole, Monument Valley.
Rare ascent of this amazing tower. Hired by the Navajo Nation to remove illegal anchors.

Washer Woman, In Search of Suds

Castleton, North face, twice
Long, wide and challenging first pitch which she lead both times, is her premier memory. Higher up is more excellent, exposed climbing. Best route on Castleton, she thinks.

Castleton, North Chimney, twice

Castleton, Kor-Ingalls, twice

Three Gossips, heinous, ugly route.
Sonja attempted this one several times before topping out with Chris Begue. Bad juju tower, she says. Stuck ropes having to be cut, partner got dry heaves on lead, long whippers, all sorts of things went on.

Owl Rock, dozens of times
Lead this climb every thursday afternoon for a year as part of an Arches National Park interpretive program.

Monitor Butte
First ascent of some unprotected OW horror show with Earl Wiggins, who, as always, climbed calmly into the death zone, and returned. Sadly, plain living proved too hard for Earl, who committed suicide in 2003.

Merrimac Butte, a mixed aid/free route.

The Rectory, Fine Jade, twice
One of the best. Compact cracks, Sonja says.

The Rectory, Crack Wars
Loose, dirty and some classic 4 inch cracks. With Wiggins, off course.

The Convent
Sonja remember doing a first ascent on this little visited tower. That's all.

Candle Stick Tower, regular route
Loose and scary is Sonja's comment.

Echo Tower, regular route
Fine route is all that she remembers from her 1986 ascent.

North Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks, three times.
Personal trade route. One time she lead all pitches (except the last scary squeeze, credited to humble Dan McRoberts) with two guys in tow . Being overly modest, Sonja didn't want this comment included here.

Portal Overlook, Point of Moab
Obscure, seldom done route featuring more wide stuff. Again with the late OW master Earl Wiggins.