Sonja's
Desert Towers, 1986-93:
These routes are mostly damn hard,
some with several 5.11 pitches, and quite clearly beyond the
ability of fivenineclimber himself. Several are first ascents,
even. Besides this impressive list, Sonja did practically
every route at Wall Street half a dozen times and scores of
Indian Creek desperados.
So much for bragging about my wife, who today only leads reluctantly,
but still loves climbing. Pretty much the perfect partner:
Effortlessly glides up anything I can lead, doesn't complain
about always following, but is nevertheless ready to take
over if I poop out.
Moses, Primrose Dihedrals, twice.
Sonja's favorite. Just excellent crack climbing, she reports,
which included a dihedral that changed aspect in a strange
and unique fashion. What this actually mean I didn't quite
get.
Airport Tower, route name might be Wind
Shear.
First ascent with Galen Howell.
Totem Pole, Monument Valley.
Rare ascent of this amazing tower. Hired by the Navajo Nation
to remove illegal anchors.
Washer Woman, In Search of Suds
Castleton, North face, twice
Long, wide and challenging first pitch which she lead both
times, is her premier memory. Higher up is more excellent,
exposed climbing. Best route on Castleton, she thinks.
Castleton, North Chimney, twice
Castleton, Kor-Ingalls, twice
Three Gossips, heinous, ugly route.
Sonja attempted this one several times before topping out
with Chris Begue. Bad juju tower, she says. Stuck ropes having
to be cut, partner got dry heaves on lead, long whippers,
all sorts of things went on.
Owl Rock, dozens of times
Lead this climb every thursday
afternoon for a year as part of an Arches National Park interpretive
program.
Monitor Butte
First ascent of some unprotected OW horror show with Earl
Wiggins, who, as always, climbed calmly into the death zone,
and returned. Sadly, plain living proved too hard for Earl,
who committed suicide in 2003.
Merrimac Butte, a mixed aid/free route.
The Rectory, Fine Jade, twice
One of the best. Compact cracks, Sonja says.
The Rectory, Crack
Wars
Loose, dirty and some classic 4 inch cracks. With Wiggins,
off course.
The Convent
Sonja remember doing a first ascent
on this little visited tower. That's all.
Candle Stick Tower, regular route
Loose and scary is Sonja's comment.
Echo Tower, regular route
Fine route is all that she remembers
from her 1986 ascent.
North Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks,
three times.
Personal trade route. One time
she lead all pitches (except the last scary squeeze, credited
to humble Dan McRoberts) with two guys in tow . Being overly
modest, Sonja didn't want this comment included here.
Portal Overlook, Point of Moab
Obscure, seldom done route featuring more wide stuff. Again
with the late OW master Earl Wiggins.
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