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Overview
with best arrangement for a 9 day, 8 night trip:
All information presented
here is based on 4 trips in 2002/3
Day 1, 12 miles, 1900' up, some
down:
Start at Crescent Meadow in Giant Forest, near Lodgepole.
On the final segment of the drive to the trailhead there's
spectacular Giant Sequoias flanking the road, but once embarked
on foot you will curiously see only one more before leaving
their habitat for good.
This day deals with a long rising traverse of the south facing
wall of the huge canyon containing the Middle Fork of the
Kaweah River (remember that name, Kaweah. It will pop up again
and again). This 11 mile hike to the camp at Bearpaw is not
only hot but also involving more ups and downs than expected.
A grunt for sure, featuring the heaviest packs of the trip.
Bearpaw, to top it off, is also the only unattractive campsite
along the way.
Day 2, 4 miles, 1000' up:
Short, easy. Stroll up to Hamilton Lake, via spectacular trails
cut into sheer walls, across hanging bridges and past waterfalls
and huge granite domes. The area is called Valhalla, throne
room of the Norse Gods. Then go for a swim after selecting
one of many awesome campsites at the lake.
Day 3, 7.5 miles, 2400' up, 1200'
down:
Back to business, with a crossing of the Great Western Divide
by way of Kaweah Gap. Above timberline for the entire ascent,
the trail is weaving an improbable route out of the Valhalla
cirque to the 10700 high pass. It is never very steep, but
long and sustained. On the way is Precipice Lake, the subject
of a well known Ansel Adams photograph.
Kaweah Gap is not one of the most spectacular divides I've
been on, and after the splendor of Valhalla, downright anticlimactic.
But it sets the tone for the Big Arroyo. This immense high
mountain valley is quiet and peaceful, with sweeping vistas
and, for a slight dramatic effect, the Kaweah range poised
on the northeast flank. A gentle descent takes you to the
Big Arroyo campsite, which is all good.
Day 4, 14 miles, 1000' up, 3800'
down:
One of the longest segments.We will climb out of the BA to
the vast Chagoopa Plateau, where endless, sandy miles lead
through dry Foxtail Pine forest. A sudden green meadow somewhere
along the way provides a great view of nearby Mt. Kaweah and
a cool creek to soothe aching feet. You better do this in
fact, because much remain. At the edge of the plateau starts
the brutal descent into the Kern River Trench, a seemingly
endless, jolting drop of some 3500 feet.
Finally down, there's just a few more miles of riverside trail
to the big bonus reward: Kern Hotspring, an undeveloped, remote
one person concrete tub with 105 degree water, surrounded
by campsites. A spectacular and varied day.
Day 5, 7.5 miles, 1200' up:
Every one of my Trans Sierra suggestions shown here include
a let-down etape of boring slogging. Day 5 is the one on the
HST. 8 miles of unchanging, nearly flat riverside hiking takes
you to Junction Meadow, a camp like the previous, but not
blessed with a hotspring.
Day 6, 9 miles, 3000' up, 300'
down:
Ah, the fresh, crisp air of the high mountains. Let's get
back up there from this claustrophobic, hot, snake infested
canyon. The climb start immediately, and what a climb! A few
hours of work in the cool morning hours should suffice to
get you to the junction with the John Muir Trail at Wallace
Creek. This also signal an end to the relative solitude of
the middle portion of the HST. After Wallace more ascending
lead to an indistinct saddle, followed shortly by the first
view of Mt. Whitney (unless you were especially observant
at a certain spot back on the Chagoopa Plateau). Mere minutes
bring you to the Ranger Station at Crabtree, where this day's
ordeal ends.
Day 7, 3 miles, 850' up:
Take the morning off, because the short jaunt to desolate
Guitar Lake will only take a few hours. No need to arrive
too early at this shadeless, exposed body of water under the
south west flank of Mt. Whitney, where the camps are on rock
slabs and brown eroded grass. Neat spot though, once the sun
gets low in the sky. If a thunderstorm pattern has set in,
delay even further and arrive after dinnertime, when most
Sierra thunderheads have blown themselves to pieces. Because
you don't want to be up here in a lightning event.
Day 8, 13 miles, 3000' up, 4000'
down:
The big one. If you posses any kind of mountain sense,
get up at 2 AM, and leave no later than 3. With a thunderstorm
pattern in place or stragglers in you party, even earlier.
Climbing a high peak (in our case the highest in the lower
48) is something that stirs a certain uneasiness in me, even
if it is just a walk-up like this one. An early start is the
alpinists traditional first line of defense in a hostile environment
full of challenges. What might appear like an over cautious
notion, is in reality the ingrained method of mountain folks
through generations.
So get all your stuff together in the wee hours of the morn
and hump it up to Trail Crest at 13500'. Here in the windy
cold of high altitude is the spot to drop the pack and get
a few things together for the summit bid. Water, snacks and
layers with windshell is the minimum. It is a 4 mile roundtrip
with 1000' of gain to reach Mt Whitney from Trail Crest. In
deteriorating conditions (read: too late of a start), opt
out and continue down the east side of the mountain.
After the glorious moments on top head on down, through the
hordes of sickly looking day trippers coming up from the Portal.
Two options for camping exists in the heavily regulated Whitney
zone: Trail Camp, 12000' and Outpost, way down in the woods.
Weather and burgeoning AMS will dictate the choice. Personally
I always taken the group down to Outpost.
A third possibility for the extremely antsy is to head all
the way to the trailhead this afternoon.
There's no water between Guitar and Trail Camp, a considerable
stretch.
Day 9, 3.5 miles, 2000' down:
An easy walk leads to Whitney Portal and souvenirs, pancake
breakfast, showers, beer and hopefully some sort of ride back
to wherever you came from.
Notes:
74 miles, 14500' up and about the same down.
Permits are required for this entry point, and they are subject
to a quota system.
If following the itinerary outlined here, every camp
except the the last 2 will have in-situ bearboxes for food storage.
Crowds are an issue at Bearpaw, with little or no overflow options.
This is also the site of a High Sierra Camp, a staffed, reservations
only tent lodge. An option on busy weekends is to stop short
at Buck Canyon, an improved campsite.
Adding to the numerous attractions of Bearpaw is also the issue
of marauding bears.
Commercial guiding is not allowed in the Whitney Zone, which
encompasses all of the east side of the mountain.
Ranger Stations enroute are Bearpaw and Crabtree. At Big Arroyo
the rangers at Little Five Lakes are an easy 3 miles away. In
the Kern the simplest way to emergency assistance must be the
very long slog down south to Kern Station.
Be aware that reaching one of these stations may not solve any
of your problems, since the understaffed Rangers almost always
are away on patrol.
Cell phones are useless between Hamilton Lake and the summit
of Whitney.
The creek crossings found in the Kern Canyon are rather difficult
in early season, or years with large snow pack. From a guiding
standpoint, these events always represent the greatest risk
of injury, as overloaded clients
perform bonebreaking stunts to avoid
getting their boots wet.
Also look out for rattlesnakes
anywhere in the Kern.
The map of choice is a waterproof composite from Tom Harrison
Maps, called Mt. Whitney High Country. This sheet, in 15 minute
scale, cover all three routes with good detail. Contours are
easy to read and trail information include mileage, ranger stations
and spot elevations. Highly recommended.
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